2008: Weeks 49-52

Despite my valiant efforts to write each week, the time has come to admit defeat and write a few posts to get back up to date. The last weeks of December were rather busy, filled with travel and preparation for travel.

We started the month in London, sending the last 5 nights of our trip in a nice little hotel between Paddington Station and Hyde Park. Despite constant gray skies and drizzle, and extreme tiredness we managed to fit in the Tower of London, the National Portrait Gallery, and the National Gallery. We also walked through Hyde Park, visited the Diana memorial fountain, and explored the very eclectic Victoria and Albert Museum. On the social side of things, we caught up with friends at a nice pub in Camden, and toasted our last night of holiday drinking cider with John. Then, after almost 3 months, we were on a plane and back to Canada.

Our 11 days in Merrickville were spent packing and organising, applying for jobs, and of course enjoying a bit of Canadian winter. We had an early white Christmas, and enjoyed walking around the snowy village. And we had a memorable trip into to Ottawa, trying to get around during a transit strike the day after a massive snow fall. Too soon, though, we were back at the airport, this time heading for Sydney.

After way too many hours on a plane (delayed because we had to be de-iced in Vancouver of all places), we finally touched down, and after a short wait for the plane to be be dosed with bug spray, we finally had our feet on the ground. All 4 of our large bags arrived safely, and we were soon through the gate and greeting my family. They were happy to see us of course, but there was better news to come for them - after months of secretly applying for visas and talking about where to live we finally told them that we were planning to stay.

The last week of December was filled with celebrating Christmas and my Dad's birthday and settling in to Australian life. Finally, we saw out the year eating great food and drinking great wine with some very good friends.

Best of 2008
- skiing Banff
- NYC with Lynda
- Elysa and Patrick's wedding
- Algonquin Park
- camping at Castle Mountain
- roadtrip to Vancouver Island
- Radiohead in Vancouver
- Quebec City
- Edinburgh
- Amsterdam
- white Christmas in Merrickville
- sunny Christmas in Sydney

2008: Week 48

We ended our time in Paris with another meal at our local fave Le Volcan, then flew to Luton and caught a bus to Oxford where we spent a few days with Kerry and Anna. Since we've visited before we skipped the main attractions in town and ventured a little further afield to Blenhein Palace, a stately home belonging to the Dukes of Marlborough. It was mind-blowingly massive, with huge gardens and a lake - very interesting, although possibly not worth the massive entrance fee. Highlights were the gardens and family artworks; not so exciting was the modern-but-cheesy exhibition on the history of the house, complete with animated ghosts.

Our timing meant we missed a chance to participate in high table, but we did catch a Scotch tasting and visit several excellent restaurants. We also managed something of a cider tour of the local pubs - it turns out that there are a lot of good ones on offer along with the ubiquitous (and less tasty) Strongbow and Magners.

Best of the week

- A walk along the muddy banks of the Thames, then lunch at The Trout.
- A visit to Blenheim Palace, grand home and birthplace of Winston Churchill.
- A Scotch Whisky tasting at Nuffield College - very refined! And if you ever see a bottle of Ardbeg Uigeadail, I'd recommend you ignore the price and buy it.
- Spending time with friends, old and new.

Worst of the week
- The VERY long walk back from lunch at The Trout (although the problem had less to do with the distance than with the interval between bathrooms...).

2008: Week 46

After just a week in Zurich we packed our bags again, and caught the TGV train to Paris. A quick ride on the metro, up a LOT of stairs, and we were home for the next 2 1/2 weeks.

The next day we wandered our neighbourhood (close to the Luxembourg Garden) and picked up a few food supplies. I was very excited to find passionfruit flavoured Pim's - chocolate and passionfruit, does it get any better? We also visited our local boulangerie to buy pain (lit. bread, a slightly larger version of a baguette) and croissants.

We also managed to fit in a little sight-seeing. On Thursday we went for a very long walk across town, finally ending up in Montmartre to enjoy the view across town from Sacre Coeur. Then on Friday we had a very different view of Paris with a visit to the Catacombes, a series of underground tunnels which house the bones of thousands of Parisians - the bones were moved from cemeteries that had become over-crowded. The tunnels were also used by the Frecnh resistance during WW2. We finished the week with a visit to the flea market at Porte de Vanves, an evening walk along the Seine, and a pleasant afternoon with a good friend who was in town for the day.

Best of the week

- Finally being in a country where I don't have to ask everyone if they speak English.

- Catching up with Laurent.

- Baguettes, pain, croissants, patisseries, good cheap wine ... you get the idea.

Worst of the week

- Needing to exercise self control with all the good food.

- Wishing my French was better. There has been a lot of improvement in the last year, but there is a long way still to go.

2008: Week 45

Sunday was spent cleaning our apartment and taking care of last minute details (like booking train tickets from Zurich to Paris) before leaving our home for the last month and heading to the bus station. A bus from Amsterdam to Zurich is cheap, but fairly inconvenient. The trip ended up taking 15 hours with multiple stops in 4 different countries and a long stop at the Swiss border. But we made it at last and finally made it to my grandmother's apartment. It was weird to be there without her - oddly quiet. Last time I was in Zurich both my grandparents were there along with a few other relatives!

Our week was spent sightseeing, not the frantic kind where you rush from place to place, but more relaxed. We discovered that a number of attractions were closed for the seaon, and some of the smaller museums are no longer free, and didn't seem worth paying for. Actually, pay is exactly what you do in Zurich. Restaurant food is quite expensive, and a coffee and cake at one of the lovely cafés doesn't seem so tempting when you see the price. But not everything is over-priced. We enjoyed warm chestnuts from street vendors and plenty of chocolate!

We climbed the tower of Grossmünster Cathedral for a great view of the city, and visited the Landesmuseum to learn about Swiss history. We also visited the nearby towns of Zug and Schwytz (less than an hour by train, but very different). In Zug we tried their famous Zuger Kirschtorte (lots of cream, nuts, and cherry brandy), while in Schwytz we gazed at the Alps and saw the first contracts of mutual assistance between the states which eventually became Switzerland. The earliest is from 1291!

Best of the week

- the view from Grossmünster Cathedral

- hot chestnuts

- Schwytz, and the view of the mountains

Worst of the week

- language - Dutch has many words in common with English, but it was much harder to work out what's going on in German. At least the food is labelled in French, so we knew what we were buying .

- difficulty feeling like a local. It's a little hard to explain, but with the language and high prices I felt I was observing, rather than experiencing, life in Zurich.

2008: Week 44

I don't have much time to write this week, but I did manage to post some photographs from the three major excursions of the week, a bike ride to Haarlem, and train journeys to Utrecht and Antwerp. Hope you enjoy them!

Tonight we're off to Zurich - internet access is likely to be rather sporadic for the next few weeks, but my Canadian phone is still working if you need to get in touch.

Bridge in Haarlem

Canal in Utrecht

Antwerp Station

Best of the week
- A bike ride to Haarlem, a beautiful town just 20km from Amsterdam.
- Catching up with Kerry for the first time in a year.
- Canals below street level, and the view from the Domtoren (112m above the street) in Utrecht.
- Drinking multiple flavours of lambic in some great beer cafes.
- Sint-Pauluskerk in Antwerp, a magnificent church which still houses artworks made for it by van Dyck and Rubens.

Worst of the week
- A late train from Belgium, missing the last tram, and the 40 minute walk home on a rather chilly night.
- Getting ready to leave Amsterdam; selling my bike, posting things home, trying to use up all the food we bought.

2008: Week 41

The week started fairly slowly as we continued to settle in to Amsterdam. We spent time looking for a second bike (one came with the apartment), watching TV to escape the rain, and exploring our local area. We've also been investigating some of the food and drink items available here. Blackcurrant seems to be a favourite flavour, and we have enjoyed blackcurrant jam, soft drink, and tea (all similar to Ribena, but a little less sweet). Salt and vinegar chips are non-existent, but the barbeque ham flavour is pretty good, while the balsamic flavour was disappointing. Beer is cheap; €10 buys 24x330mL bottles of Grolsch or Heineken in a plastic crate. At the market we can buy cheese of varying age, bbq kippen (miniature chickens; the taste is very similar to Aussie bbq chicken), and fresh herring (you eat it raw with onions and pickles). A new favourite is FEBO, fondly referred to by us as "the food in the wall place". There is a counter where you can buy hot chips and sauce (saté is my favourite), and a wall with many small windows holding various flavours of croquettes. Just drop your coins in the slot, open a door, and you're enjoying your hot snack. It sounds a little gross, but the turnover is high, so the food is fresh and the serve yourself option keeps the queing time to a minimum.

The end of the week was all about being tourists. Between us we had three family members staying in Amsterdam, so we spent several days showing them around town and visiting lots of museums. We saw the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh museum, took a canal cruise, visited the botanic gardens (and saw giant lily pads, about 1m across), and toured Rembrandt's House. Food-wise, we ate pannenkoeken, croquettes, frittes with sauce and had a wonderful Indonesian dinner.

By Sunday, only Lynda was still in town, and the two of us caught the train to Brussels for the day. It was a whirlwind visit, but we walked around town, admired Grand Place, ate waffles, visited chocolate shops, saw the lace museum, and ate mussels in a cheesy restaurant on rue de Bouchers. A little under three hours on the train and we were back in Amsterdam.

Best of the week
- Catching up with Tina, Jen, and Lynda.
- A day in Brussels with my sister (who even learned a few words in French).
- Buying a bike so we can explore the regions surrounding Amsterdam.

Worst of the week
- Dodgy and over-priced bike dealers; is it just me who finds it odd when someone has already sold the bike advertised but miraculously has another one (worth €300 new) for sale at a bargain price?
- Over-the-top waiters in Brussels - joking about going on a date is funny, offering (repeatedly) a sample massage is just sketchy.

2008: Week 40

From Carlisle we took a bus to Newcastle-Upon-Tyne. The original plan had been to take the Hadrian's Wall tourist bus, but at the tourist office we were told it was a small bus, and since we would also have had to wait three hours for a connection we decided to take a regular bus. Bad move, the regular bus was slow, still required a connection (which we missed), and didn't give us even a glimpse of the wall. We'll know better next time. Actually, next time we'll probably try a driving holiday, it seems to be the most efficient way to see many of the smaller places we missed this trip.

We finally arrived at Newcastle and made our way to our hostel which turned out to be excellent. Newcastle is of course famous for the Tyne bridge, built around the same time as the Sydney Harbour Bridge, and another six bridges which span the Tyne. You can easily see all seven at the same time. Some highlights in Newcastle were a trip to Tynemouth, where we saw a beautiful old castle above the beach, Laing Art Gallery, with a small but excellent collection of local artists, and a trip across the Tyne to Gateshead where my paternal grandmother was born.

An adventurous travel option came next - we caught the overnight ferry from Newcastle to Amsterdam. This was quite a journey, with spectacular views as we sailed down the Tyne and on to the North Sea, then lots of waves throughout the night. We were very pleased that we decided to take the budget option and carry our own food as the on-board prices were horrendous (would you pay 5 pounds for a one cup plunger of coffee?). Breakfast was a sad affair though, without even a cup of tea.

We finally landed in Amsterdam (Ijmuiden to be precise), and after a short bus trip we arrived in the heart of Amsterdam. Out accomodation for the first night was a little unconventional, in a houseboat set up as a hostel. I have to admit that I'm not convinced this was a great idea. It was certainly different, but the room was even tinier than I expected, and the gangplang leading on-board was not really ideal for carrying luggage. I was not sorry to leave the next day when we moved to our long term accomodation in the lively area of De Pijp. We have mostly rested since then, with a few outings to buy food and explore the local area. The weather has been poor, but I've enjoyed spending a lot of time at home reading and relaxing after many weeks of travel.

Best of the week
- Visiting Gateshead and getting a feel for the place my great-grandparents lived, then boarding a ship and sailing away (after spending just one night on the ferry, I cannot imagine what it would have been like to sail to Australia). How would you feel as the boat left the place you were born and carried you to an unknown land half a world away?
- Segedunum Roman Fort and Hadrian's Wall. Both only visible after excavation work, but amazing all the same.
- Finally arriving in our Amsterdam apartment, home for the next few weeks.

Worst of the week
- The space between the top and bottom bunk in our houseboat cabin. Much too little head-room for my liking!
- Discovering that the supermarket runs out of bread on Saturday afternoon, and having to wait for Monday for more of the good stuff. Fortunately we could buy the bake at home variety to go with our soup, but I've already developed a habit of eating fantastic dark bread spread with blackcurrant jam - the last few slices have been rationed out today.

2008: Week 39

A quick and scenic flight from Dublin, and we were in Edinburgh. And what a change! The accomodation helped - after 4 days in a hotel we had a serviced apartment and quite a bit more space. But the real change was the city. I'm not sure exactly what it is, but Edinburgh has a magic I just didn't feel in Dublin (or Glasgow). The first evening we went for a long walk around the castle, which sits on a massive rock in the centre of town. It's a spectacular sight, an ancient walled castle sitting on top of sheer granite cliffs. The next two days were spent exploring museums, visiting St Giles cathedral, walking in Holyrood Park, and visiting the castle.

Next up was Glasgow, a short bus trip away. Lyn and her friend met us at the bus station and joined us for lunch and a visit to Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum. It was a quick visit for them; after an hour or so the bright young things ran off to do some shopping, leaving the old folks browsing the museum. Our second day was spent around St Mungo's cathedral visiting Provand's Lordship (the oldest house in town), the Museum of Religious Life and Art, and the cathedral itself.

We finished the week in Carlisle, a town just over the border into England. It was a quick visit, but we managed a stop at the cathedral and Tullie's House Museum, where we learned about the history of the region from roman times onwards (Carlisle is at the eastern end of Hadrian's Wall). We also learned about the Border Reivers, families who lived in the lawless border region between Scotland and England and waged war on one another for 300 years. I was amused to note that Matt's family (on both sides it seems) were among the reivers.

Best of the week
- Edinburgh - the atmosphere, the castle, the contrast to Dublin
- National Gallery of Scotland
- Hanging out with Lynda and Yvonne in Glasgow
- Tullie House Museum in Carlisle

Worst of the week
- Discovering that the clothes dryer in our Edinburgh apartment didn't work - the night before we had to leave!
- Dragging my suitcase for what seemed like tens of kilometres. A backpack is looking like a great investment right now.

2008: Week 38

Just a short post this week, as I'm using a shared computer at the hotel and I don't want to keep the next person waiting.

On Wednesday evening we left Ottawa, arriving in Dublin on Thursday morning. Since then we've spent our time exploring the city and also learning a little about suburban life in Dublin as our hotel is about 45 minutes from the downtown core by tram. Dublin is an interesting city, but not one I think I'd like to live in. It's old, and there are lots of lovely old buildings, but the vibe is not particularly lively. The suburban sprawl was quite a surprise, especially the strip mall I saw on the way to the hotel. Perhaps if Quebec is the most European city in North America, Dublin is the most North American style city in Europe (at least in my experience).

Best of the week
- The Book of Kells and the Trinity College Library
- The Guinness Storehouse
- The Brazen Head Bar (oldest in Dublin)

Worst of the week
- Jetlag!!!
- My grandfather is unwell :(

2008: Week 37

The last week before we head to Europe, and where did we go? Quebec City, the most European city in all of north america! And what a city - such a contrast to Calgary! We camped on the outskirts of town, just a 10 minute drive to the old city where we spent a day exploring the streets and walking on the city walls. That's right, Quebec is a walled city! You can see one of the gates in the photo above.

Highlights included amazing house-made croissants in the cafe where we ate lunch, two shops devoted to selling medieval costumes and accessories, and seeing a woman walking her dog in a pram. I highly recommend a visit if you're in eastern Canada.

The other highlight of the week came on Sunday morning when Lynda called to say she was in Ottawa for a few hours. We were able to change our plans for the day and rescued her from a few hours of boredom at the airport. The time was mostly spent in the car (Matt's parents live about an hour from the airport), but it was still good to spend time together and catch up on the last few months.

Best of the week
- A completely unplanned afternoon with Lynda after her travel was re-routed through Ottawa.
- Quebec City. Gorgeous architecture, great food, and ils parlent français.
- Catching up with friends in downtown Ottawa on Saturday night.

Worst of the week
- The traffic as we tried to drive through Montreal. Unbelievable!
- The last minute rush to get ready for our trip.

2008: Week 36

Most of this week has been devoted to travel as we drove the 3600km from Calgary back to Ottawa. Monday we headed out and made it as far as Moosomin in eastern Saskatchawan. There's not much to see on the way, just mile after mile of flat prairies. Tuesday we drove right through Manitoba (more prairies) and ended up in Thunder Bay, a fairly large town on the western end of Lake Superior. Flat fields gave way to forests and lakes - a nice change, but those winding roads really slow you down! Wednesday was basically spent driving along the shore of Lake Superior. It's a rather spectacular drive, the lake is the largest of the great lakes and has waves that wouldn't be out of place on the ocean. We stopped at a particularly wild beach where the waves were crashing onto piles of logs washed on to the shore, and the sand was replaced by round stones larger than my hand.

Wednesday night we stayed at possibly the cheapest motel on the planet in Sudbury. It was clean though, and a welcome relief after we tried to stop an hour or so earlier and found every motel in town full (it was a paper mill town, and the motels were full of people doing maintenance). Thusday dawned with just 600km left, and we made it to Matt's parent's place in time for dinner. I cannot exaggerate the relief I felt on Friday morning when we didn't get up and drive again.

The last few days have been fairly relaxed, swimming (the first time I've used my bathing suit in Canada) and sorting through boxes to go into storage for a while. This coming week we're planning a short trip to Quebec City, and then the next week we're off to Europe!

Best of the week
- Arriving at Matt's parent's place and getting out of the car.
- Discovering that it's still summer in Ottawa. Real summer, not the sad Calgary excuse for a summer where 30C is an unusually sweltering day.
- Submitting corrections to a long drawn out paper that has been accepted subject to revisions.
- Realising that I can't think of more than one worst for the week, and adding an extra best instead.

Worst of the week
- Four straight days in the car. Canada is a BIG country, and there's not that much to see between Calgary and Ottawa.

2008: Week 33 & 34

You'll have to wait just a little longer for an update - I'm on vacation and will be mostly offline until the end of the week. See you then!

2008: Weeks 25 & 26

Did I mention that June was going to be busy? After my French exam on the 16th it was time to start preparing for the next adventure, a very brief trip home to Sydney. It was my first visit in 18 months, so I was very excited, but also trying to keep things low key and avoid over-scheduling.

I flew a different route to usual. Air Canada have recently started flying direct from Vancouver to Sydney, so I decided to try them out, and I'm pleased I did. The 777s flying the route are brand new, and the personal TV screens certainly made the trip less boring. Avoiding US customs was great, but Vancouver airport is in rather a mess as they expand for the Olympics.

The time at home flew by as always. I opted to spend a lot of time with my parents and grandparents, and I had a number of bits and pieces to take care of, so there wasn't as much time to catch up with friends as on other visits. I'm planning a longer visit soon, so hopefully I can catch up with more friends then.

This morning I arrived back in Calgary to a heat wave - it was 28C in the house, and about the same outside. Fortunately an afternoon thunderstorm cooled things down a little. Now I just have to finish unpacking, recover from jetlag, and steel myself to go back to work on Wednesday.

Best of the week(s)
- The first glimpse of land out the plane window, then flying over Sydney Harbour.
- Spending (way too little) time with friends and family.
- Passionfruit, haloumi cheese, lamb cutlets, and the red wine I've been storing for years.
- Good coffee. Everywhere!
- Feeling confident after my french exam!

Worst of the week(s)
- Sydney airport and the last glimpse of land out the plane window.
- Too many friends, not enough time.
- Leaving Matt behind in Calgary.

2008: Week 23

I apologise in advance for any spelling or grammatical errors in this post - I was out of bed at 3.30am Calgary time (5.30am in Ottawa) so that we could make our flight home. I'm tired!

We had a very relaxing week spent with Matt's parents, who live just outside Ottawa. I read a lot, sat in the sun, and played with the dog. We also spent 3 days in Algonquin Park, about 2 hours drive away, where we spotted plenty of interesting plants and animals, and did battle with black flies and mosquitoes. I have a LOT of scars, but I think I killed more than bit me.

There will be lots of photos on Flickr in the next few days, keep an eye out...

Best of the week
- Seeing a beaver (well, we think it was a beaver, swimming far away in a beaver pond)
- Seeing (4) moose.
- Relaxing!!!!

Worst of the week
- Itchy itchy insect bites.
- A cold that just won't go away

Sisters in the Snow

One of the highlights of the last few weeks was a visit to Lynda, who is working at Teen Ranch in Ontario.

The swimming hole in winter.

The weather was good when I arrived, but a late night snow storm followed by rain and and a cold snap left us with plenty of snow to play in. Oh, and roads like a sheet of glass, and tree branches coated in ice. Very pretty!

Ice covered branches.

Manchester

The last stop on our trip was the northern city of Manchester. Why Manchester? Flying back from Manchester instead of London gave us an extra 2 days away – the official excuse, anyway. The fact that Matt is a Man City fan, and we’ve been watching Coronation Street couldn’t have had anything to do with the decision ☺

I really liked Manchester. It’s big enough that there is a lot going on, but not so big to be completely crazy. We stayed right in the entertainment district, so the street outside was busy quite late at night, but it felt really friendly. There was an excellent selection of restaurants, and plenty of nice looking pubs and bars. We spent most of our time walking around, firstly in search of a Man City jersey, and then around the downtown area and Salford Quays, an upscale area built around a series of canals. Pretty, but I prefer the older, less planned neighbourhoods.

On Sunday morning we dragged ourselves, and our slightly heavier bags, to the station to catch the train to Manchester airport. A short 8 hour flight and we were back in Calgary, and back to regular life.

Highlights
• Spotting the Coronation Street set from the windows of the Science Museum.
• Reaching a geographical high – the most northern place I’ve been.
• Awesome Indian food on our last night in Europe.

Lowlights
• The most crowded shopping street ever!
• Watching the Wallabies lose to Jonny Wilkinson’s boot – again!

Europe photos are up on Flickr!

Here.

Liverpool

Our French speaking adventures ended in Paris, and we flew back to the English speaking world, landing in Liverpool. A short bus ride, and we were in town, and checking into our hotel. We knew it was a budget hotel, but the emphasis really was on budget. The staff were friendly (although it did feel a little like a scene from Fawlty Towers) and the room was clean, but I wouldn’t go back.

Liverpool has a long history as a port town. During the days of slavery it was a major stopover between Africa and the Americas. Now there is a huge display in the shipping museum honouring the thousands of people affected by that dark period. Liverpool’s more recent claim to fame is The Beatles. We spent several hours at The Beatles Story, an excellent museum following the rise and fall of the fab four, and then visited Mathew St, home of the Cavern and a LOT of cheesy memorabilia/tourist stores.

Highlights

• Watching a Beatles cover band perform at the Cavern, the club where the Beatles regularly played before the mania started.
• Eating an authentic greasy diner breakfast, complete with beans and black pudding.

Lowlights

• Eating an authentic greasy diner breakfast, complete with beans and black pudding.
• The hotel where we stayed – minimal room, next door to a night club. On the bright side, they had a power outlet where I could charge my phone.

Paris

J’adore Paris! The busy streets, the interesting shops, and the architecture. The gardens, the museums, the food. The beautifully dressed people, the metro, the list goes on. Paris feels so alive – everywhere you go there are homes, shops, and businesses mixed together, and people on the street just going about their lives. A far cry from the strip malls and suburbia at home!

We had three nights in Paris, the longest stay of our trip, and it was wonderful to spend them in a friend’s apartment rather than in a hotel or B&B. I could really get used to croissants and coffee for breakfast! And a choice of perhaps 20 restaurants within 5 minutes walk. What else to say? J’adore Paris!

Highlights

• Sainte-Chappelle, the gothic cathedral in the heart of Paris. Possibly the most beautiful of the many churches we visited.

• Macarons from La Duree.
• Speaking French and being understood.
• The city of love with someone I love.

Lowlights
• 7 euro pints of beer! Rather a shock after Brussels.
• Hearing French being spoken, having no idea what was said, and realizing there’s still a long way to go.

Luxembourg City

From Brussels we caught the train to Luxembourg City, capital of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. It was a beautiful journey, with many interesting towns I’d love to go back and explore, including one with the ruins of an ancient fortress high on the hill.

Luxembourg City sits between two wide gorges with sheer walls. The city was established in 963 with the building of a fort, and by the 1800s was a strong fortress in a strategic location. And not surprisingly, a bloody history. The Grand Duchy was declared neutral in 1867 and most of the fortifications were dismantled. Neutrality didn't last long - Luxembourg was occupied during both world wars, after which it joined NATO and the EU. Today the city is a financial hub in one of the richest countries in Europe.

Highlights
• Pétrusse, the gorgeous park at the bottom of the gorge.
• Walking around the remains of the city fortifications.
• Musée National d’Histoire et d’Art.
• Views from the old town into the gorge bellow.

Lowlights
• Bock casemates being closed (a network of underground passages which form part of the old fortifications).
• Ugly new EU highrises on the horizon.

Brussels

In Brussels we stayed at a very different style of Bed and Breakfast - a room in a modern apartment building! The room itself was great, with a large window and a tiny ledge, so we could look outside across the roof tops. It was pretty weird staying in someone's house though.

Brussels is an interesting city, a real mix of old and new. The city centre is sunken compared to the newer parts of town, and we mostly explored the old town. We avoided museums, and just wandered, taking in the impressive architecture. Dinner was mussels and fries, the classic Belgian dish. The mussel season had just started, so there were many signs proclaiming "Les moules sont arrivées!"

Highlights
• Grand Place – absolutely stunning architecture.
• The Cathedral of Saint Gudula and Saint Michael.
• Chocolate everywhere.

Lowlights
• Buying transit tickets, then realising we could walk everywhere.

• Negotiating the rail system - Brussels has three main train stations, and finding the ticket office was somewhat challenging. Matt did an excellent job buying tickets in French!

Amsterdam

We spent a week in Amsterdam last year, so this time it was a flying visit, just long enough to catch The Tragically Hip play (twice) at Paradiso. It’s a fantastic venue, although strangely we had to buy memberships at the club as well as our show tickets. Afterwards we stopped by Bojo, a late opening Indonesian place with great cheap food, then walked along the canals. Of course we also managed to find time for a few Heineken, stroopwafels, and pannenkoeken.

Highlights
• Exploring neighbourhoods we missed on the last visit, and watching bikes being scooped out of the canals.
• Walking through the Vondelpark, by night and day.
• Chatting with our waiter Alex at Bojo, the late night Indonesian café.

Lowlights
• A delayed flight from London, giving us 3 less hours in Amsterdam.
• Getting cold and wet after rushing to a concert without my jacket.

London again

We caught the bus back to London (a much longer trip in the early afternoon) and had just enough time before dinner to do part 1 of our Beatles tour - a visit to Abbey Rd. Stay tuned for part 2.

Dinner was with the lovely Katrina, and we decided to go to the Walkabout, one of a chain of Aussie pubs in London. Not too bad really - I had the kangaroo burger and a Crown Lager! And it was great to catch up. Even though Kat and I both make it home fairly regularly, the last time we'd actually seen each other was Christmas 2003 when she visited Ithaca!

Oxford

Our friend Kerry has just moved to Oxford, so we jumped on a late night bus from London to pay him a visit and explore his new home. Oxford is a wonderful town, with beautiful architecture, and an atmosphere that reminds me of the many English books I devoured as a teen. Not surprising, since several of my favourite authors wrote while living here.

Highlights
• Lunch (and dinner) at The Eagle and Child – regular meeting place of CS Lewis, JRR Tolkien and their friends, the Inklings. Classic pub food in the place where Narnia and Middle Earth were born.
• Walking around Christ Church college, feeling as if I were at Hogwarts.

Lowlights
• Still being jetlagged, sleeping late, and not exploring as much as I would have liked.

London

We landed at Gatwick airport VERY early, and decided to spend the day sightseeing in an effort to overcome the time difference. It worked pretty well, although I’m not sure I really took in much at the British Museum which we visited the first afternoon.

We also spent an afternoon wandering around Westminster and Buckingham Palace. I was a bit sad that they weren’t changing the guard, and couldn’t get a certain A.A. Milne poem out of my head.

London is a big city, and we really only touched the surface, missing a range of sights such as London Bridge and the Tower of London. Next time ….

Highlights
• Walking around the Monopoly board (an amusement lost on Matt, since the N. American version has different street names).
• The British Museum and the National Gallery – free!
• Finally seeing those famous buildings.
• Watching Man City play Fulham.

Lowlights
• Being shut out of the tube with alarms sounding. It turns out this is the normal method to ease congestion during rush hour.
• Jetlag – it’s never good when you fall asleep walking around a museum. And I mean literally falling asleep on my feet!

The big trip

The big European adventure has come and gone, and there are lots of stories and photos to share. After the jetlag clears I’ll be posting highlights (and lowlights) from each of the cities we visited. Photos should be up on Flickr in the next few days.

Due Diligence

Inspired by the good Dr over at ...marvel a day I'm feeling inspired to be rather more diligent about posting. It's not that I have nothing to write about - the opposite actually - but finding time to focus and write down the ideas I have (hopefully articulately) takes time. As I write this, I'm feeling a bit pathetic really. I mean, it's not as if I have kids, or a degree in progress , or something to keep me really busy.

So now, an update. Summer in Calgary has been filled with camping and hiking adventures in the mountains (see Flickr for LOTS of photos). I also had a weekend in Vancouver with my parents before they came and visited Calgary. We had an excellent time - the highlight was probably taking them for a trip to Banff, Lake Louise, and Jasper, and hearing comments like "I've seen pictures of those lakes, but I never believed they were really that blue". They are THAT blue. For a contrast, we also visited Drumheller, about 2 hours east of Calgary. It's a region where numerous dinosaur remains have been found, and the stark badlands of the area were quite a contrast to the alpine landscapes of the mountains.

The next adventure is a trip to Europe. Matt and I are flying to London this week, then to Amsterdam, Brussels, Luxembourg, Paris, Liverpool, and Manchester. Quite a whirlwind in 2 1/2 weeks, but it should be lots of fun, and give me plenty of chances to practice my French. I managed to get by in Paris 5 years ago with very basic travelers French, but I'm hoping that 9 months at the Alliance Francaise has left me prepared for actual conversations. Who knows, I may even start blogging in French!

New photos

Lake Minnewanka, originally uploaded by thegreendragonfly.

I've posted some new photos from 2 recent trips to Flickr. Firstly our short visit to Ottawa and Ithaca at the end of May, and a camping trip last weekend to Tunnel Mountain.

Escape the city

Southern Alberta has finally defrosted enough to contemplate leaving the city limits and exploring the surrounding areas. On Sunday we drove roughly 200km SW through Okotoks and the Turner valley, down the Cowboy Trail, and through Crowsnest Pass into the neighbouring province British Columbia (photos are here). A beautiful area - the contrast between the prairie landscape and the Rocky Mountains is amazing! And being Spring, there were lots of baby animals around - horses, cows, and deer. Crowsnest Pass has many relics of unsuccessful coal mining operations in the area, including the Frank Slide, a disturbing mass of boulders that slid off the face of Turtle Mountain in 1903. The "rock avalanche" extends at least a mile from the base of the mountain . It wiped out part of the town of Frank and a large stretch of railway in its 100 second journey.

Heading back into Calgary we decided to drive along Macleod Trail instead of taking the highway. Close to 100 blocks of strip malls, an unpleasant contrast to the prairie wilderness just a few kilometres away.

Banff, Stampede, and Home

Getting a little out of date here. Sorry.

Thursday Matt and I drove out to Banff National Park, a little over an hour outside of Calgary. I had really hoped to see an elk, but it wasn't to be. Still, there was no shortage of impressive sights - Lake Louise gleaming turquoise against the craggy mountains and distant glacier, Moraine Lake more blue than I thought possible, the Crowfoot glacier (one of the toes has receded since it was named), and Peyto Lake and its source glacier viewed from the highest pass in the park.

Friday we joined the cowboys and girls at the Stampede for mini donuts (think of a bigger version of the Berry Donut Van serving bags of miniature hot fresh cinnamon donuts - yum!) and chuckwagon races. Alas, I couldn't find a cowboy hat I liked enough to fork out $30. The races were followed by a kitschy patriotic show featuring the "Young Canadians of the Calgary Stampede". It was pretty cool, although a little bizarre to hear Canadians being so overtly patriotic. They usually tend towards more subtle maple leaves on their backpacks or hockey jerseys. The bars afterwards were crazy, but we finally managed to find a beer at the Unicorn Pub. It's still a mystery how a pub founded in 1979 could be Calgary's original pub. It's a young city, but really...

Saturday was a sleep in followed by some pretty good Mexican for lunch, then off to the airport. Quite some tears later I was on the WestJet plane (kind of the Canadian version of Virgin, lots of fun) back to Ottawa. It's a little strange to think that the three and a half day drive could be reversed with a three and a half hour plane ride. Matt's lovely parents picked me up, fed me coffee and alcohol, then let me sleep in on Sunday AND fed me bacon and eggs for breakfast! What legends!

Of course all good things eventually end, and after breakfast I headed back to Ithaca. A very uneventful drive, which may or may not have been punctuated by a trip to the Carousel Mall in Syracuse. And finally I arrived back to Ithaca, to a steamy 30C apartment, some very wilted plants, and the fun of unpacking. Oh, and work tomorrow. Hooray....

Calgary

Yes, we finally made it to Calgary. The last day of driving was pretty slow, because we stopped to see a few touristy things along the way. First the Brooks Aqueduct which was built in the early 20th century to irrigate the fields in Southern Alberta. Then on to the Bassano Dam, also part of the irrigation system. We also stopped for the first McDonald's of the trip - not a good move. It always tastes even worse than I remember. But after multiple stops at Tim Horton's it was time for a change.

This morning we went to a Stampede Breakfast - free pancakes, sausage and eggs - all part of the Calgary Stampede. This is ranch country, the Canadian wild west, and the Stampede is a massive yearly rodeo. People on the streets are actully wearing cowboy outfits! I'm hoping to pick up a cowgirl hat myself.

Manitoba and Saskatchewan

Another 2000km or so behind us, and so are Manitoba and Saskatchewan. Both very interesting, if flat fields of canola and wheat are your thing. Or fields with blue flowers - not sure what that is, flax maybe?

We also saw thousands of cows. Much as I enjoy mooing at cows on road trips, it does get a bit old eventually. The wildlife was quite interesting. We saw LOTS of black dragonflies being blown all over the place as they flew too close to trucks, lots of butterflies around too. A few deer, alive and dead, and plenty of porcupines (all dead). A dog-like animal that might have been a wolf. Many birds too, although I couldn't identify all of them. Ducks (or loons), seagulls, hawks, black bird with orange marks on their shoulders, and many others.

Tomorrow we have less than 300km to drive. Hooray!!! Then to the next big event - my appointment at the consulate.

Ontario is BIG

Day 1 of the Calgary road trip, and after a massive 1200km effort, we are still in the same province! Not too much to report - the highlight was finally seeing a moose at dusk. Stay tuned for a picture. Staying tonight in a town called Marathon - quite appropriate!

Ottawa

Well, it's actually Merrickville, but I made it. The nice Canadians let Lyn and I in to the country, although we did have to get her work offer faxed to the immigration officers. And I have the first stamp in my new passport.

We had a quick look at Niagara Falls on the way through - the number of people there was insane! Then Lyn had her first taste of Tim Hortons on our way to Teen Ranch where she is staying. Then it was just me for five exciting hours of driving. At least most of it was on a major highway. The beer when I arrived was definately welcome.

Mission Syracuse: Complete

Day 1: Successfully completed

Road tripping

Tomorrow I'm starting on a series of road trips that will take me all over the place. First trip is to Washington, DC - 750 miles round trip. Then on Sunday, a short trip to Syracuse, NY - 130 miles round trip. On Wednesday, Ithaca to Ottawa, via Toronto - 530 miles. Thursday (and beyond), Ottawa to Calgary - 2350 miles. Hopefully then I will get a new visa stamp in Calgary, fly back to Ottawa, and drive back to Ithaca - 210 miles. Total driving distance - 3970 miles = 6390 km in a little over 2 weeks. Luckily my little car is not involved in the Ottawa to Calgary leg - it's reliable, but not THAT reliable.

Hmmm....not doing so well at the posting lately. Life is busy, but not unusually so. So often I feel that I'm running just to keep on top of the few things I have to take care of, and then I'm in awe of my friends who look after themselves and their families.

The second most exciting recent (and continuing) event is the unfolding of Spring. The daffodils are out, and a few tulips are starting to emerge. Most trees are covered in tiny sprouts of green, and fruiting trees are blossoming. Magnolias are in bud, and should burst into full flower in the next few days. And the weather is consistently warmer, enough to wear skirts and thongs. Hooray!

The most exciting recent event is a stolen (ie/ all I could manage) week of vacation. Location and photos to come.

The most unexciting event is some new upstairs neighbours, who I swear do not sleep or go out of the house. They do listen to irritating hip hop and play car racing video games though. Put that with a total lack of insulation in my bedroom ceiling, and I'm going slightly crazy. Only a few more weeks before my lease runs out though :)

More weekend adventures

Last weekend Matt and I traveled to Merrickville again, this time battling bad weather, poor headlights, and a defective iTrip. The weather demon in this case is lake effect snow - we have to drive north past the eastern end of Lake Ontario on a stretch of road notorious for large snowstorms. The trip up was uneventful, although I discovered that my headlights don't work very well when covered with salt from the road. The weekend itself was fun and relaxing. Lots of good food, trivial pursuit (victory!), two hockey games (not so much victory), and I even finished "Reading Lolita in Tehran". I've only been reading it since June.

The trip home was another story. The snow started soon after we set out, but the roads in Canada were clear, and we made it past the border in the usual time. Then the fun began. The snow ranged from light to extremely heavy - at one point we pulled off the highway for petrol, and I've never seen it snow so hard before. I got out to clear the windows, and the back was covered by the time I finished the sides and front. There was so much snow falling that you could hear it hitting the ground. I've never experienced that before. Back on the highway, and the visibility was awful, the road covered in snow, and I was very pleased not to be the one driving. Then we came to a town, snowplows had been through, and the road was clear after that. It's amazing what a difference it makes. The rest of the trip was fairly normal, although the iTrip seems to have issues when it snows. Luckily I still have my old fashioned cassette adaptor and a few music tapes in the car.

Weekend Adventures

Thursday night seems a bit to late be writing about the weekend, but too bad. Saturday and Sunday I was back in Merrickville, this time for Thanksgiving (yes, it’s earlier than the US). It was a really relaxing weekend – sleeping in, delicious breakfasts featuring lots of bacon, eggs, and pancakes, too much coffee from Tim Hortons, and lots of turkey, cranberry sauce, apple crisp, and pumpkin pie. Well, not too much pumpkin pie – it tastes quite good, but I’m still not over my “pumpkin is not a dessert” prejudice. On Saturday morning Matt and I went for a stroll around Merrickville and found Chupa Chups of all things (imported from the UK I think). It was weird to be able to share one of my childhood memories with him in his home town.

On Monday morning we headed to Montreal, about 2.5 hours drive east. It was my first visit, so I was pretty excited. Spent some time wandering in the old town, then went and saw The New Pornographers on Monday night. They’re a Canadian band – check them out, they’re pretty good. Tuesday we climbed Mont Royal for views over the city, ate lunch in a great little café, and visited the McCord museum of Canadian history. Then it was time for the 5.5 hour drive home, but not before stopping off for Montreal style bagels – sweeter and chewier than the New York style, and VERY good.